Inspired by the novel ‘Soie’ by Alessandro Baricco about a European man who becomes enchanted with the East, Jasper Garvida’s a/w11 collection was heavily influenced by Eastern style and the early 20th century love affair with all things oriental.
His kimono dresses were slit thigh high and worn with volumous jackets reminiscent of a Samurai’s scaly uniform, or on their own with minimal adornment emphasising the rasor-sharp tailoring.
Floor-length, bias-cut silk gowns with low-back detailing evoked the Thirties glamour and oriental style of screen sirens such as Anna May Wong, while Garvida’s print design featured cut-out, round images reminiscent of Italian designer Pierot Fornasetti.
Anna May Wong
All in all I loved the many references to art deco orientalism and Fornasetti’s iconic images. Garvida’s collection convinces with beautiful tailoring and feminine shapes – a shame that some of the models were so thin the dresses looked ill-fitting and badly cut.
images: Tony & Guy, Style Bistro and Fashion Foie Gras
Irma, the creative brain behind The Vintage Dressmaker, is one of my really good friends. We got into vintage at roughly around the same time, and while I branched into the Sixties, Irma has developed a serious devotion to the Twenties.
Her passion for the decade and past fashion in general really shines through in the bespoke clothing she makes as The Vintage Dressmaker. Using vintage patterns, fabrics (where possible) and trimmings – from belt buckles to buttons – her designs are truly modern vintage versions of past styles.
What I love about her work process is that she’ll spend hours researching tiny little details such as fastenings or correct prints before embarking on designing, making sure everything is in keeping with how clothing would have been made in the past.
All her designs are unique and she makes everything by hand, so things are completely customisable. You can either take inspiration from her current collection or get in touch about any design – from the Twenties to the Seventies -you have in mind.
We’re also currently working on a joint project, which will hopefully help resurrect the humble working girl daywear – so stay tuned!
I’m not a big fan of Rodarte – it’s all too whimsical – but I do love their new collection for Opening Ceremony. The range of 50s-inspired sun glasses is just perfect!
Really nice new range of dresses from London-based label Dahlia
I love love love Lancashire-born, London-based designer Charlotte Taylor, who used to work with Luella. I’ve seriously not been this excited about a new label in ages. Penguin print? Cape dresses? Genious!
The one thing worth going to Berlin Fashion Week for is – and has been so for the last few collections – Austrian designer Lena Hoschek. Her vintage-inspired designs never disappoint and are just the right mix of feminine glamour and girly kookishness. As my friend Katie of London Plinth rightfully asks, why is she not stocked in London?
AW 2011 collection images via Allet Ohne Schminke
Great resort collection by Zac Posen’s diffusion line Z Spoke.