Inspired by the novel ‘Soie’ by Alessandro Baricco about a European man who becomes enchanted with the East, Jasper Garvida’s a/w11 collection was heavily influenced by Eastern style and the early 20th century love affair with all things oriental.
His kimono dresses were slit thigh high and worn with volumous jackets reminiscent of a Samurai’s scaly uniform, or on their own with minimal adornment emphasising the rasor-sharp tailoring.
Floor-length, bias-cut silk gowns with low-back detailing evoked the Thirties glamour and oriental style of screen sirens such as Anna May Wong, while Garvida’s print design featured cut-out, round images reminiscent of Italian designer Pierot Fornasetti.
All in all I loved the many references to art deco orientalism and Fornasetti’s iconic images. Garvida’s collection convinces with beautiful tailoring and feminine shapes – a shame that some of the models were so thin the dresses looked ill-fitting and badly cut.